Deer River to Bemidji, Minnesota Friday, June 11, 2021
Bemidji. About as cute, mysterious, and exotic a name as I’ve yet encountered. Today was a simple matter of following the Mississippi upstream on US 2, my old friend. Smooth, flat, and wide, not much traffic, and a tailwind. There was not much to see, just the dense northern Minnesota woods, punctuated by a few outposts and lakeside resorts. I found one unanticipated downside of a tailwind, the bugs can keep up with you, and I was strafed constantly, but not bitten. One big fly got behind my sunglasses and caused a fuss, better not to wear them. Another case of going commando.
Back at the UVM campus, I remember scoffing at the students glued to their cell phones, talking constantly while walking. Now I could see the appeal. Might as well fill the time. Had lovely conversations with my sisters and my classmate Sharon, the veterinarian in San Diego. Talking with sister Anne recalled another deep discussion we’d had precisely 40 years ago, on 6/11/81, when I stayed with her on my bike trip from DC to Boston. Another time of transition, from student to doctor, leaving my hometown forever, and a 3 year relationship. Even then, I took to the bicycle to ease the passage. Within a month, I met my future wife.
Also en route, I was able to find a campsite on Lake Itasca for Saturday, there’d been a cancellation. That was a relief. I wasn’t relishing being homeless. Hopefully after this the pressure will ease, away from the weekend and the pipeliners.
I was so absorbed in these calls I barely noticed that the creek I was crossing was the Mississippi. Oh no! I’d passed from the eastern to the western half of the country while not paying attention! There’s a spot right at the source where you can rock hop across, I’d wanted that to be my first crossing. Oh well.
The wind shifted and my speed dropped from 13 to 7 mph, but I only had a few miles left. Mary Mitchell was my warmshowers host, an archeologist and anthropologist who ran the local food shelf. We walked down the Paul Bunyan bike trail to a great al fresco dinner overlooking Lake Bemidji. More great conversations, more great hospitality. As we walked, I was struck by how in tune she was with the local flora and fauna, identifying details and species in the plants that lined the bike path. Her garden, a model of sustainability, buzzed with hummingbirds, and we even saw a pileated woodpecker! My first, but old hat to her.
Distance 56 miles, 2,502 total. Time 7 hours with stops. Elevation gain 477 feet.
©️ 2021 Scott Luria
The Ends of the Earth 