Ride with the wind

Bozeman to Big Timber, Montana. Saturday, June 15, 2024

I read more about Bozeman, it’s the fastest growing metropolitan area in the US. Once a quiet college town (Montana State University), it has attracted the attention of the gentry, who have moved here in droves and jacked up the real estate prices. The motel proprietor in Arco, Idaho had been driven out by this. Bozeman was her hometown, but she could no longer afford to live there, even with her and her husband working two jobs.

The weather has been crazy. The morning news was full of record highs across the country, but there was a winter storm watch for Big Sky, I got out just in time.

A strong wind was blowing out of the west, suggesting maybe I should do the same. Once again, I asked at a local bike shop for the best routes, they were lukewarm about me taking I-90, but it was the most direct and least hilly option. It looked a bit foreboding as I approached Bozeman Pass

but the shoulder held, it was not too steep, and I was up and over in two hours. Once again, I was touched by the historical context.

After that, it was all downhill with a stiff tailwind. What could be more ideal?

I took frontage roads whenever I could, but a lot of the time I was on the interstate, and never felt unsafe. The scenery was stunning as I swooped down into Livingston

and crossed the Yellowstone River, which I will follow downstream for the next 80 miles. Lots of media context, this valley is the site of the hit TV series Yellowstone, also the movie The Horse Whisperer, among many others.

I was purchasing a “nutritious” snack of Coke and a Snickers ice cream bar, when a woman insisted on paying for me. She had been intrigued by my story, and invited me into her RV, where she and her husband made me a truly nutritious lunch of tuna salad, avocado, and mineral water. Allyson and Rick Dennis were from Hanford, Washington, she was in human resources and he had been testing ports of entry around the world for radiation contamination of imports, before they retired. Their RV was meticulously organized, and they seem to be truly enjoying the Van life. Just fascinating to talk to, and I was so appreciative of these trail angels. I hope we can connect in the future.

I know I sound like a broken record, but I just can’t get over the kindness of strangers.

As I continued to blow down the Yellowstone, I realized I was no longer among mountains, but gently rolling hills. I had crossed the Rockies, crossed the divide; I could just cruise on back to the East Coast. But no, you poor schmuck. There are four more highpoint “parking lots” to hit, many more crossings of the divide in service of my OCD. The passes looming ahead are much higher than the ones I’ve done so far.

What’s that expression? Whatever floats your boat.

Distance 62 miles, 1,886 total. Time 8 hours with stops. Elevation gain 1,688 feet

©️ 2024 Scott Luria