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Umatilla, Oregon to Walla Walla, Washington Thursday, May 23, 2025. The day off turned out to be a godsend. A storm was raging outside, I got lots of loose ends taken care of, and had great talks with family and friends. Today’s ride took me through Wallula Gap, an upstream version of the Columbia RiverContinue reading “Tragedy at Waiilatpu”

Umatilla, Oregon. Wednesday, May 22, 2024 I was all set: laundry done, route planned, Warmshowers host arranged in the next town, Walla Walla; even got a reasonable amount of sleep. My knees seem to be a little better. Got up early, ready to bolt, but then I checked the morning forecast. On the one hand,Continue reading “I feel like such a weenie”

Roosevelt, Washington to Umatilla, Oregon Tuesday, May 21, 2024 Today was the end of the century, the century I thought I could do yesterday, until reality told me otherwise. I was comfortable enough in that new tent, but there were trains going by all night on both sides of the river, mitigated somewhat by theContinue reading “Fin de siècle”

The Dalles, Oregon to Roosevelt, Washington. Monday, May 20, 2024 Figuring I might have to do a century today, I tried to get an early start, but early starts are not my strong suit. As always, crossing the Columbia was both scenic and harrowing, made more so by a strong crosswind. I passed right inContinue reading “Henges”

Hood River to The Dalles, Oregon. Sunday, May 19, 2024 I’ve always wondered about this town, with the odd name. It’s unusual to have the article “the” in a town name, I can only think of The Hague and The Bronx. Countries like the Ukraine and the Bahamas have dropped the article, once they becameContinue reading “Valley of the Dalles”

Cascade Locks to Hood River Oregon Saturday, May 18, 2024 You’d think after all my touring, I’d be an old pro at booking accommodations. Today’s experience showed how much I still have to learn. Last night’s stay was in an unprepossessing place with reasonable rates. I was taken aback by the outside decor, they saidContinue reading “Bobbled booking”

Sandy to Cascade Locks, Oregon Friday, May 17, 2024 It’s funny, I’ve been to the Pacific Northwest a bunch of times, but I’ve never seen the Columbia Gorge. Time to rectify that situation. I was a little wobbly, mounting my titanium steed for the first time in a week, and the dropper post took someContinue reading “The Bridge of the Gods”

Government Camp and Sandy, Oregon Thursday, May 16, 2024 Today was a day for reflection and reorganization. Always a challenge to go from hiking-mode to bicycling-mode, today’s transition was freighted with rental car returns, UPS packing, bike-repair pickups, and peeling lips. Behind it all was profound disappointment, for all my trying to put a braveContinue reading “Licking my wounds”

On the Mountain Tuesday-Wednesday, May 14–15 2024 Caesar: The Ides of March are come. Soothsayer: Aye, Caesar, but not gone. Midnight on May 15, I couldn’t get that exchange out of my head. In the end, it turned out better for me than for Julius, but we were both disappointed. As planned, on Tuesday I metContinue reading “The Ides of May”

Timberline Lodge, Oregon. Monday, May 13, 2024 As detailed in the previous pages, today is the fourth of five legs to climb Mt. Hood. The first was from Portland to Sandy at 1000 feet. The second from Sandy to Government Camp at 4000 feet. The third from Government Camp to Timberline Lodge at 6000 feet.Continue reading “The uphill grind”