The Not-boring Green Tunnel

Milwaukee to Eden, Wisconsin. Wednesday May 19, 2021

As soon as I crossed into Wisconsin yesterday, I realized it was a bikers’ paradise. The quality of the bike path improved immediately, and drivers and dogs were notably nicer.

It was hard to leave Annie after a great night’s sleep. We lingered over breakfast, talked for hours about old times, and I had fun playing with her adorable golden retriever, Paddington.

I needed bike gloves, and Annie directed me to Erik’s nearby. The guy with the keys didn’t arrive till 11:30, but is was worth the wait. What a store. I looked around, surely there’s something I’ll need, I’m not going to see a shop like this for weeks, but all I really needed was the gloves. Here are two of the great guys who helped and chatted with me.

Next on the agenda was to head to my friend and colleague Mike Vrabec near Appleton, he has a lovely house on the shores of Lake Winnebago. Just over 100 miles, so a two day trip. I’ve come to trust my navigator app, RideWithGPS; I just punch in the destination and come along for the ride. Sure enough, I was directed to a series of rail trails, so smooth, flat, and safe.

Nine years ago I talked Jane and Hope into doing the C&O Canal with me, sweetening the pot by promising to stay in B&Bs each night. I was enthralled with the beauty and history, but Jane said, eh, it’s just a boring green tunnel.

Well even I could admit that these rail trails could be a bit boring. Ruler-straight, flat, generally with train tracks on one side and a string of power lines on the other; yeah, but so stress-free. Today had a nice tailwind, so no wind noise. I took the opportunity to call friends, this time my good buddy Caroline, and we talked and talked. Next was a FaceTime call to Jane and the family on the Cape, I could see my friend David shucking Wellfleet oysters, and they could see me sweating over the handlebars. The miles just sped by, interrupted only by a banana split in West Bend.

The weather was nice enough that I decided to try camping. I called ahead, and Sara, the manager at Breezy Hill Campground in Eden, heard my story and offered me a cabin at tent-site rates. I guess I’ve perfected the pathetic routine enough that people are offering me upgrades before they even see me!

I say these rail trails are flat, but they do go over hills, it’s just that the grade is so gradual you notice only when you see your speed go down and up. Also, you do go slower when you’re yakking constantly on the phone. So these easy tailwind miles took longer than I bargained for, and I didn’t get in to the campground until almost 8. I loaded up on dinner and breakfast stuff at a quick stop 3 miles before, and felt like a bag lady, with a laden grocery bag hanging from the handlebars. I had fun watching the sunset over dinner from my campsite, and catching the end of Ordinary People.

In the morning, I was able to thank Sara, and her dog Isabelle. Her brother Jon, the owner, gave me a Chapstick for the road. It’s these small kindnesses that make the trip so special. They have lavished a lot of care on their campground, and I was very comfortable in my cabin for 30 bucks.

Distance 62 miles, 1,519 total. Time 7 1/2 hours with stops. Elevation gain 1,212 feet