Transamerica Trail

Orfino to Kooskia, Idaho. Tuesday, May 28, 2024

Today, finally, I will be joining the legendary Transamerica Trail, the original coast to coast bicycle route that was begun by a group called Bikecentennial in 1976 as an offbeat way to celebrate the nations bicentennial. A grassroots effort spread by word-of-mouth, it attracted over 4000 cyclists. They were mostly in their 20s, rarely wore helmets, and typically rode discount store bicycles. I had just graduated college and was considering joining them, but just couldn’t swing three months without generating income at that point. These photos capture the esprit of the group, and of the times.

The route endures today as the centerpiece of the Adventure Cycling Association (ACA), whose maps and advocacy I have often touted in these pages.

In my mind, it is as iconic as the Appalachian Trail and I have often dreamed of following it. I envisioned scores of cyclists also going that way, eagerly anticipated the sense of community. And here was my chance to join it.

I awoke to the soothing sounds of the Clearwater River right outside my tent, and followed that river upstream all day. I was getting used to the shoulderless Route 12, and happy to see that on a very gradual uphill, with no wind to aid me, I was averaging 10 mph. I’ve been warned of construction along this route, and the traffic guard at the first stoppage, Symphony (I kid you not, that was her name) warned me that the contractors at upcoming work zones were more surly. At Kooskia, I joined the Transamerica Trail, but didn’t see any cyclists today. A sign warned that there were no services for the next 93 miles, so I stocked up on groceries. Thunderstorms and a half inch of rain were predicted overnight, so I stayed at a B&B 7 miles out of town. I was greeted by this sign

and the evening went uphill from there. My hosts Bonie and Billy served me wine and a lovely charcuterie, and we talked for hours. Bonnie is a retired nurse, and Billy a search and rescue specialist who has assisted at many hot spots around the world. He gave me lots of advice about the upcoming road, and how to cope with the challenging conditions.

Tomorrow will have no cell service and only primitive campgrounds, it will be a couple of days before I can post again. Wish me luck.

Distance 38 miles, 1,100 total. Time 6 hours with stops. Elevation gain 761 feet

©️ 2024 Scott Luria